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drive this out from the top (using a LONG brass drift or 1/4"-5/16" brass rod) rear of the block through the hole where the oil pressure sensor was mounted.

Not sure if this is specific to LT1/4's but there is a steel ball that plugs an intersection of the oil galley in the block It is located in the galley hole at the rear main cap mating surface adjacent to the oil filter boss. the top of the oil pump drive gear can crack VERY easily if over TQ Oil pump drive is driven by cam using a shaft (recommend a ARP steel one). Reverse flow cooling so cyl heads need the steam pipe I suspect you do know these differences between gen 1 SBC and gen 2 (LT1/4) and they really don't effect building the motor as much as just differences.Ĭam has a step-down nose and smaller bolt circle (two different snout configurations have been used during the production runs to further complicate matters) so using just any SBC cam won't work This may be SOP but just one example of detail advised by a builder way more qualified than me. 010 under as the edge of that hole would now be pretty sharp).

Things like chamfering the oil holes "slightly" on cranks, especially after they have been ground. I bought mike's book more to better understand what procedures are necessary and some that just "go the extra mile" in terms of procedure in machine work. Sounds like you are ahead of me in skills/tools for that. I do leave machine work to qualified machine shops, including installing cam bearings, as I don't have the tools for that. Well again I am no expert, just wrench on my own cars.